In this video, we work with one of the project rifles that Frank was kind enough to send me. Part 2 will be up today as well.
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Related posts:
- Initial Cleaning of a new Military Surplus rifle acquisition Part 2
- Basic Military Surplus Rifle Cleaning Techniques (corrosive)
- “Introduction to Cold Bluing Firearms” Part 1 Military Surplus Rifle
- Cleaning After Shooting Military Surplus Corrosive Ammunition
- What Is The Best Military Surplus Rifle?
WARNING: Do not use on plated, decorated barrels or new weapons, unless you know what youre doing.
I then do a rifle bore gauge measurement for the owner this gives them a great idea on how well the system will work. Most X-Military stock is used and bore damaged. By the time any M1s or SLRs get to us it has been abused to death.
Great video.
Agree, the costs are prohibitive if you use commercial solvents.
You looked like a professional set up, but if youre an amateur then stay away from the bath idea if you clean less than 100 weapons/year.
However, we use self mixed copper/lead solvents (research how to do this & mix), cost us about $20/year for a 2lt (34 US fluid ounces) bath. Wear acid coat/gloves/eye protection. After that; wadding pull through, a wash, full oil dip and rub down.
score on the mauser!!..what year and factory code does it have?..as for jnrolf comment on bathing an antique rifle in the bathtub?..i think ill pass….i clean all my rifles exactly like u you do and the method works great for me.
great vid, really liked it 5/5
That seems like a good idea in theory, if you have boats loads of money for cleaning solvents and a giant, dedicated area to do it in.
I clean my M1 very carefully. Luckily, whoever had it before me took care of it too. Out of 100 or so rifles I inspected at the CMP, almost all of them had beat up muzzles from shoddy cleaning practices.
What is with all the work?
Just unscrew the barrel group off the stock and bath the unit, then run the pull throughs in the bath. 3 Min job, top!
Also I would not be happy, using a wire pull through that many times on an old M1.
No…There might be a little bit of a break in period for any high traffic surfaces to get smoothened out a little, but all in all, it’s not a problem.
I have parkerized Makarov mags, AM47 mags, etc. and they function with no issues.
Would parkerizing the inside of the mag screw with feeding? Otherwise yes, parkerizing would look much better.
Sounds like a cool product. I’ll check it out. Thanks for sharing for the good of the group.
I’ve done that before myself and it works fine.
You can also take it out back and fire about 40 blanks through it to warm it up.
I have done that with the 7.62×54r rifles to decent effect.
I’d parkerize the mag but thats just me.
Bluing is basically just pretty looking rust. Why not just duracoat the mag? For a bore, who cares if it takes everything out. So long as it doesn’t cause etching (I don’t think you’d want to combine NJ and Hoppes)
I like to use is Deep Creep made by seafoam. It can be picked up from most auto parts stores and works wonders on everything from my rifles/pistols/shotguns to old seized up bolts on my truck.
Think outside the box eh? How about warming the barrel with a heat gun so you dont have to shoot it to warm it up? If the gun is assembled it will be harder to heat up but when I get a MilSurp the first thing that happens is that it comes apart totally. I will try it next time and let you know what happens.
Naval jelly takes everything off. I had a rusted M1 Carbine magazine that I tried to fix with naval jelly and when it was done, I had a silver magazine. It stripped the blueing right off of it…
I wouldn’t use that stuff in my rifles…
Didn’t know about cleaning the bore when the rifle is still warm. Thanks for the info.
Eric – I’m enjoying these videos. Thanks!
Etching isn’t a problem so long as you flush the bore out before hand with mineral spirits.
yeah i know thats what i used it for befor i quit
I have used Naval Jelly with mixed results. It works good for some stuff, but I’ve never tried it in the bore itself.
I’m sure you’d have to be very careful not to etch the surfaces of the bore.
Any time I get a milsurp, I just say “fuck it” and I use Naval Jelly to get rid of everything in the bore. However, once the initial cleaning is done I use BJ bore paste and CLP to clean it.
It is a fine rifle Frank. I have considered my options in terms of refinishing, and I have decided that it is just too pretty of a rifle as is to mess with too much. It has so much character and has it’s own “story”
I will find a bolt, make sure it headspaces properly, and shoot it.
All I am going to likely do is put a light coat of tung oil on the stock.
No problem my man. I like putting this information out here. The point is that we develop like a little family and body of knowledge so we can be self dependent.
Good stuff Eric, I’m learning a lot too, about how to get even more detailed in the cleaning regiments. I’m sure that rifle hasn’t been fired since WWII given it’s overall condition compared to other mil-surp weapons.
Man I can’t thank you enough for taking your time to put this stuff out there. I have spent months of internet research and taking to guys coming out of the field, local Type A guys and a gunsmith here and there to learn what you are putting into your videos. Surplus care of a rifle is a lot different than grabbing an AR and loading it with lasers/lights, scopes and who know what else. Many thanks.